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. (No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

O. H. WILLGOX. MACHINE FOR FORMING WELTS OR HEMS ON FABRICS. No.263,641. Patented Aug. 29, 1882.

, Imam/Z57" (No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2. 0. H. WILLOOX.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3. G. H. WILLOOX. MACHINE FOR FORMING WELTS0R HEMS 0N FABRICS. No. 263,641.

Patented Aug. 29, 1882.

Wa aw UNITED STATES PATENT ()FFICEQ CHARLES H. WILLGOX, OF NEW YORK, N.Y.

MACHINE FOR FORMING WELTS OR HEMS ON FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 263,641, dated August29, 1882. Application filed July 11, 188:2. (No model.)

To all whom zt may concern and overseam sewing surface or edge may beformed ing, modifications of the Be it known that I, CHARLES H. WILLCOX,of New York city, in the county and State of New York, Improvement inMachines for Forming Welts or Hems on Knit Goods and other Fabrics,which improvement is fully set forth in the fol lowing specification.

This invention has reference more particu" larly to a welting or hemmingguide or system of welting and hemming guides for use in con nectionwith a combined trimming and overseam sewingmachine; but it alsocomprises certain modifications in the trimming mechanism itself,whereby its. operation is improved as well generally as with respect tothe formation of the welt or hem.

The we'lting or hemming guides generally are like those described inLetters Patent Nos. 255,576 and 255,580, granted to the assignee of S.Borton and myselfon the 28th day ofMarch, 1882-that is to say, they aredesigned for use in making a hem or welt invisible or but littleapparent on the right side of the fabric, and

are adapted to guide the folded fabric to the feature in the new ma= oftrimming, guiding, mechanism is a guiding surface or edge for the foldededge of the fabliC alongside of the cutting portionf of the trimmer,between the line of trimming and the line of the needle-punctures. Thisguiding on a device or ed ge-guide supported from above, being formed onor applied to the presser-foot or presser-bar 0f the sewing-machine, orfrom below, being have invented a new and useful ,said shaft by means ofan arm extending past attached to or formed on the bed-plate or themachine-frame. \Vhen the edgeguide is supported from above the fold inthe fabric lies uppermost; when from below the fold is beneath.referably it is supported from beneath, and consists of a projectingportion of the stationary blade or cutter forming part ofthetrimmingattaehment. Itissoshownherein, the said blade or cutter beingmade vertically adjustable to adapt it to goods of different thickness,and the presser-foot being arranged to clamp the fabric on top of thecutter.

In an application of even date herewith,- numbered 66,381, the guide isshown as supported from above and formed ofadevice sepa- .rate from thetrimming mechanism.

WVith the edge-guide arranged as above indicated is combined anoverhanging guide adapted to enter the folded fabric and to control ordetermine the depth of the welt or hem.

The trimming mechanism preferably employed is a shear-trimmer embodyingimprove ments described in Letters Patent N 0. 255,578, granted to theassignee of S. Borton and my self March 28, 1882, the said mechanismbeing modified to adapt it for operation in connection with overseamingmechanism,

The vibratory blade is carried by a rockshaft back of the needle, beingconnected with the needle and bent so as to be clear of the overseamingdevice. The said rock-shaft has a slight endwise movement and iscombined with a spring adapted to hold in contact the edges of the twoblades or cutters. The rockshaft is so disposed that the trimmed-oftportion or strip passes over it, and the diverting- .guide which wardsthe said portion or strip from the overseamin g device is extended, soas to prevent it becoming entangled with the arm which carries thevibratory cutter or blade.

The two cutters are held in place by clamps which can readily bereleased to allow the said blades to be removed for guiding or otherpurposes, or to be adjusted.

The accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification,represent the trim ming mechanism and the welting or hemming guides, inconnection with the principal parts of an ovorseaming sewing-machine,sufficient :00

to illustrate the application of the trimmer and guides thereto.

Figure 1 is a perspective view; Fig. 2, a

plan partly in horizontal section Figs. 3 and 4:, views in section invertical planes parallel with the feed-movement, on opposite sides ofthe needle and in elevation, looking in opposite directions; Figs. 5 and6, sections in vertical planes at right angles to the feed-movement;Figs. 7 and 7 detail views; andFigs. 8 and 9, perspective views,illustrating the sewing and trimming of fabric. Figs. 1 to 5 show themachine arranged for welting or hemming, and Fig. 8 the welt or hem in.process of formation, while Fig. 6 shows the machine as arranged to makea plain seam, such as illustrated in Fig. 9.

The machine shown is known as the American button-hole and overseamsewingmachine, and is in common use.

A is the cloth-plate or work-plate of the sewing-machine; B, thepresser-foot; O, the needle; U, the needle-bar; D E, overseamingdevices, operatingeonjointly with the needle to form the stitches; F, avibratory cutter or cutting-blade; F, a stationary blade or cuttor; G, ashield or guide for diverting the trimined off portion to prevent itsinterference with the operating mechanism; H, the main shaft of themachine; 1, the take-up; 1, a tension, and K the feed-bar. Theneedle-bar is operated from a cam (notshown) on the shaft through alever, G The overseamin'g device E is carried by a sleeve, E, journaledin the head of the machine, and is vibrated horizontally at eachreciprocation of the needle-bar by a pin, 0 working in the slot in saidsleeve. The overseaming device D is carried by a lever, D, and isoperated by the cam D on the shaft H.

The feed-bar K is given the ordinary four motions by an eccentric, K, onthe same shaft. The take-up 1 is operated by the lever 0 As these partsand the other elements of the sewing-machine are of ordinary andwell-known construction, and form in themselves no part of thisinvention, being shown simply by way of example of an overseamsewing-machine, it is unnecessary here to give a detailed description oftheir construction and operation. It may be well,however,briefly toindicate the operation of forming a stitch as follows: Two threads areused-an upper thread, which is led from the spool through the tensionand take-up and eye of the needle, and an under thread, which is ledfrom a spool through a tension and the eye in the end of the device i).The needle passes a loop of the upper thread through the fabric. Thedevice D. passes a loop of the under thread through the firstnamed loopand up past the edge of the fabric. The device E catches the loop of theunder thread and spreads it in the path ofthe needle, which-carries thenext loop of the upper thread throughit. Thus the loops in the upperthread are locked below the fabric by loops in the under thread, whichextend around the edge of the fabric, and are themselves locked abovethe fabric each by the next succeeding loop of the upper thread.

The throat-plate A is pierced at a for the passage of the needle, and atb for the passage of the device D. Y

The trimming attachment comprises an upper vibratory blade or cutter, F,and a lower stationary blade or cutter, F, the latter being adapted toserve also as an edge-guide for welting or hemming, or for otherpurposes. Both blades or cutters are in front of the stitchingmechanism. The stationary blade F fits in a groove in the clamp-plate L,and is secured in position between said plate and the plate A, formingpart of the machine-frame. The clamp-plate is attached to the plate A bya screw, L, and a steady-pin,L the screw exerting the necessary pressureto hold the blade or cutter F. By loosening the screw the said cuttermay be set up or down, or can be removed for sharpening or otherpurpose. right-hand edge, Figs. 5 and 6, or edge farthest from theneedle, is the cutting-edge. The vibratory blade or cutter F is carriedby an arm, 6, attached to.the end of the rock-shaft M, which isjournaled in bearings in the frame N, and is operated from an eccentricon the shaft H through the link 70, pin and arm 70 This rock-shaft iscapable of a slight endwise movement, and is combined with a spring, P,which tends to move it in the direction required for holding the edgesof the two outters or blades in contact. These cutting-edges arepreferably made slightly oblique to each other, so as to give a lateralmovement to the vibratory cutter at each stroke. This obliquity could besecured by setting the upper blade at an angle to the line of feed; but,as shown,

The

it is accomplished by setting the stationary blade slightly oblique.(See Figs. 2 and 7.) The blade-or cutter F consists of a flat plateground at the end, so as to leave a cuttingedge at one side, and issecured to the arm 6, preferably in an inclined position, (as in Figs.1, 3, and 4,) so as to clear other parts of the machine. It fits in adovetail groove in the split head 0 of arm 0, and is clamped by thescrewle acting to draw together the sides of the head. By loosening thescrew it can be adjusted vertically, or can be removed for sharpening orother purposes. The arm 0 (see Figs. 1, 2, 3,4) is fixed on theprojecting end of the rock-shaft, behind the presser-foot, and is bentboth vertically and laterally, so as to extend over a portion of theframe N, and to clear or be out of the way of the oversea-ming devices.The frame N is inclined in front, so that the trimmed-off portion of thefabric will readily pass up the incline and over the rockshaft. Thepresser-foot in front of the needle is of sufficient width to extendover the top of the stationary cutter, so as to clamp the fabricthereon. It is provided with a lateral finger, B, which bears on thefabric beyond the needlepunctures.

line of trimming,and acts to uncurland flatten out the edge togbetrimmed ofi, ltis useful mainly in sewing-cut knit goods. the edges ofwhich have atendency to curl. The curl,if not taken out, would interferewith the trim mingand overseam-sewing operations.

The shield or diverting-guide G has its forward-end behind the-cutter orblade F, and extends past the overseamiug mechanism and along the edgeof frame N until near the top of the frame. It diverts the trimmed-offportion,.not only ism but also from the upright portion ofthe arm 6, andprevents said portion from slipping overthe end of frame N. The upper orvibratory blade should be so adjusted. that the heel or rear partthereof will,when the cutter is at its highest elevation, extend belowthe top of the stationary blade or cutter and interpose itself betweenthe trim med-off portion and the body of the goods and never uncover thefront end of the diverting-guide G. At-c is an opening in thethroat-plateto allow the upper blade to pass through.

The apparatus, as thus far described, consti-- tutes avery efficientcombined trimming and overseam sewing-machine. By setting down thestationary blade Fv so that its top is flush with the upper surface ofthe cloth or throat plate, and properly adjustingthe upper blade in thehead 6, it may be used for uniting two or more layers by an overseam,and for trimming off the surplus material from both or all of saidlayers, as shown in Figs. 6 and 9.

In order that the stationary blade may serve as an edge-guide it is madeto project above the cloth-plate or throat-plate. The left face of thisprojecting portion constitutes the guiding surface or edge, whichtherefore lies alongside the cutting portion of the trimmer--that is tosay, it lies at the side of said cutting por tion, so that a planeperpendicular to the line of feed passes through both. The dispositionof the stationary blade is such that the guiding face or surface isinthe line of scam and between the line of trimming and the line of Formaking a welt or hem, such as shownin Fig. 8, the projecting portionshould equal two thicknesses of the fabric, so

that it will form a perfect guide for the folded edge, while the thirdlayer, or layer to 'be trimmed, may extend over the top acrossthecutting-edge, as shown in Fig. 5. Bysetting the blade up or'down theguiding-cdgedormed by the side of the projecting portion) can be giventhe depth required for weltingdifi'erent thicknesses of fabric. Y I

It hasbeen found advantageous in welting or hemming to have theguiding-edge for the folded material slightly oblique to the line offeed. By using as the stationary blade a flat plate with parallel edgesand setting it slightly oblique to the line of feed, as beforeexplained, and as shown in Figs. 2 and 7, this advantage, together withthe advantage of an oblique cutting-edge, is secured.

from the overseaming mechan the curl.

bent strip R,

In connection with the edge-guide formed bythe stationary blade orcutter an additional adapted to enter the told in the fabric, areemployed. The guide Q is so secured in position on the cloth-plate thatthe stationary cutter or .blade forms acontinuatiotr thereof. In frontof the presser-foot the guide Q has a raised or thickened portion, q,butopposite the toe of the presser-foot the upper surface is cut away(preferably scends, leaving in front of the stationary blade or cutter aportion, q, eqnalin thickness to the on the curve of said toe) anddeprojecting portion of said blade or cutter. In this thinner portion,beueathlthe finger B, is a groove, g into which the said finger maypress the fabric in order to assist in taking out This groove may beomitted, or the finger B may be made to extend below the bottom surfaceof the presser-foot, so as to sink farther into the groove,cli'ectually. y y

The overhanging guide forms part of the that is secured. to the guide Qa short distance from its edge. The. outer end and thusoperate moreofthe overhanging guideRis preferablycurved in a horizontal plane, andis brought into line with the guiding-face of the blade or cutter F,audthe portion q of the guide Q iscut away opposite this point to allowscams or thick portions of the goods to passwithout difficulty.

a The operation will be readily understood.

as in Figs.5 and 8, and is introduced under the ,presscr-foot B, withthe folded edge at against For hemming or welt'ing the fabric is foldedit the guiding-face ofthe stationary blade or cuttcr F and against theedge of guide Q. and the free edge-n extends over into the path of thetrimmer. The folded portion of the goods is inserted above the guide R,with the folded edge 12 in contact with the bend in the strip It and theend of the guide R against the inner surface of the fold m. The machinebeing started, the guides automatically direct the fabric to thetrimmer, which removes the surplus margin n, and to the stitchingmechanism, which unites the upper layer to the fold m, the needlepassing through the fold, so that the stitches will not show, or will bebut little apparent on the right side of the fabric.

For plain sewing'the guides Q R are removed, the blade F is set down,the upper blade is adjusted,if required,,and the two or more layers offabric to be united are introduced under the presser-foot. The machinebeing started, the free edges 00, the path of the trimmer, are removed,leaving the proper width of margin for the overseann ing mechanism tooperate on.

If it is desired to unite two layers of fabric and to trim one only,itis obvious that the sta tionary blade could be caused to projectsufficiently to serve as a guide for the uncut edge; or, if it is notdesired to trim the fabric at all, it could be made to guide both edges.It might or might not be desirable in such cases that project into toremovcthe guide It, or both it and the 'guide Q.

nesses, the arrangement of the rock-shaft permitting the necessarylateral adjustment of the vibratory blade or cutter.

Modifications may be made in the details of construction withoutdeparting from the spirit of the invention, and parts thereof may beused separately. For example, the stationary blade is made to serve asan edge-guide, but a similar plate not adapted to serve as a cuttercould be used, an additional plate for a cutter being employed if ashear-trimmer is desired, and the vibratory blade working between thetwo plates. might be made to project rearward between the line oftrimming and the line of needlepunctures. The welting orhemming guidescould be used in connection with other than shear-trimmersfor example,with knife-triminers havingonly one cutter, or with any known orsuitable form of trimmer. The improvements'in the trimmer could be usedWithout the guides.

When the terms edge-guide having a guiding edge or surface in front ofthe stitching mechanism are employed, or when the terms blade, plate, orcutter are used with a similar limitation, it is to be understood thatthe guiding edge or surface is at least partly in front of saidmechanism, and not that it is of necessity wholly in front of the same.

Having now fully described my said invention and the manner of carryingthe same into effect, what I claim is 1. A machine for forming welts orhems on knit goods and other fabrics, comprising, in combination withoverseam sewing mechanism, trimming and guiding devices, substantiallyas described, said devices comprising a blade or cutter operating inadvance of the overseaming mechanism andin theline ofseam, and a guidingsurface or edge arranged also in the line of seam and between the lineof trimming and the line of needle-punctures, as set forth.

- 2. In a combined sewing and trimming machine, a vertically-adjustableplate'arranged in front of the stitching mechanism and adapted to forman edge-guide, with guiding-surface between the line of trimming andtheline of needle-punctures, substantially as described.

3. In a combined sewing and trimming machine, a projecting deviceadapted to form an edge-guide, andarranged with its guiding surfacebetween the line of trimming and the line of needle-punctures, incombination with a presser-foot extending over said device, so as toclamp thereon the overlying fabric, substantially as described.

4. The combination, with sewing mechanism, of trimming devices andguiding means, the

A thin extension of the guide Q latter comprising a guiding-surfaceextending alongside the cutting portion of the trimmer, between the lineof trimming and the line of needle-punctures, and also an overhangingguide adapted to furnish a guiding-edge for the inner surface of afold,substantially as decribed.

5. In combination with a sewing-machine, a vertically-adjustableedge-guide arranged to have a guiding surface or edge in front of thestitching mechanism,'and supported from below, so as to project more orless above the cloth or throat plate, according to the adjustment,substantially as described.

6. The combination of the overseam sewing mechanism, the stationaryblade or cutter, formed of a thin plate adapted to serve as anedge-guide and arranged in the line of seam, and the co-operatin gcutter or blade arranged on the opposite side of the stationary cutterfrom the guiding-surface, substantially as described.

7. The combination of the overseam sewing mechanism, theuncurlingdevice,and the trimmer interposed between said device and theoverseaming mechanism, substantially as described.

8. The combination, with a guide, of a blade or cutter arranged to forma continuation of said guide, substantially as described.

9. Theconibinationoftheoverhangingguide, the edge-guide, the stationaryblade or cutter, forming acontinuation of said edge-guide, and

the co-operati n g vibratory cutter, substantially as described.

10. In an overseam sewing and trimming machine, the combination of therock-shaft, supported back of the stitching mechanism, the vibratorycutter or blade in front of said mechanism, and theconnecting-arm, bentso as to clear the overseaming device, substantially as described.

11. The overseam sewing-machine and a trimmer arranged to. act inadvance of the stitching mechanism, and comprising a shaft disposed sothat the trimmed-off portion or strip may pass over said shaft, incombination with a diverting-guide for warding the said trimmed-0Eportion or strip away from the IIS stitching mechanism, and forassisting it'spassage over the said shaft, substantially as described.

12. The vertically-adjustable edge-guide for a sewing-machine, havingits guiding edge or face oblique to the line of feed, substantially asdescribed.

13. A Welting or hemming machine com prising, in combination with sewingmechanism and a trimmer arranged to act in advance of said mechanisniyanoverhanging guide adapted to enter a fold and to determine or controlthe width of a well; or hem, and a folded-edge guide having itsguiding-edge continued alongside of the cutting portion of the trimmer,substantially as described.

14. In a combined sewing and trimming overseaming mechanism,

and uniting the trimmed layer to the body of the fabric by 15 stitchesextending through and around the out edge ofsaid layer, and also throughand around the fold in the body of the fabric, substantially asdescribed.

In testimony whereof I have signed this 20 specification in the presenceof two subscribing ivitnesses.

CHAS. H. WILLCOX. Witnesses:

PHILIP MAURO, E. E. MASSON.

